I have not been on this site for some time! Here are some photos of recent progress as this boat really is coming back together.
Anchor-rode lockers
I have long had the idea for relocating anchor rodes farther aft in the hull. One of the biggest detriments to performance, especially in small boats, is in carrying heavy ground tackle at the pointy end of the boat. Of course this is where it must be deployed, and from where it must pull; but nothing but some shortsighted concept of 'convenience' says it has to be stored there. Ancient ships brought their anchor rodes aft to the foremast or even abaft it; but this was only because the ship was sufficiently wide there to allow for a human-powered vertical capstan. When I designed Starchase (an 84-ft lug-rigged schooner) in 1981-82, I envisioned a whole full-width compartment aft of the foremast in which sails were stowed and through which the anchor rodes were dropped to a deep well under the sole, right in front of the ballast. This is where such weight should be; but of course it entails the leading of chain aft along the deck, which can be a tripping hazard and much else.
For Diana I had already given over the idea of using the V-berth for a two-person sleeping area. Its foot is too cramped and the whole space is too hot. And I had already committed the after outboard corners to plumbing and such for the toilet and holding tank. Against the forward bulkhead is the toolbox locker (with microwave above, since it's the only place a microwave can fit) to one side and a hanging locker (the only one in the boat) to the other. So I decided to extend these lockers forward and to make room for the anchor rodes as well.
My first idea was to use common plastic trash cans for the rode bins. They're cheap (and replaceable) and, if fitted with a plain nylon through-hull, can drain into the bilge or elsewhere. I bought two trash cans; but after cutting out the V-berth hull shelf I realized they were just not going to fit. So I concluded the sensible plan was to use the trash cans as trash cans somewhere else and to just drop the rodes into the spaces as they were.
The two bulkheads are show here, each side, before the fitting of the longitudinal bulkhead that will finish them off. Each side will be fitted with an access plate; but the bulkheads will be removable as well.
This 'glass did not kick off immediately. I suspect bad MEKP, or just an improperly light quantity of it, as my MEKP dispenser's pickup tube snapped off in the bottle while mixing. (This happens with MEKP dispensing bottles when they get old. No matter what it looks like, replace it at least every three to five years.) These surfaces will be painted in gelcoat later; but for now this is what the work looks like.
1. Port side
The white stuff is 5200, with which I seal all edges of plywood before 'glassing them to the hull. Water intrusion along the edges of plywood where they are 'glassed to the hull is the number-one killer of plywood bulkheads-- especially where chainplates are mounted.
(If you think it's sealed against water, think again. It's a
boat. Water gets everywhere.
2. Starboard side
Here is the toolbox locker, complete with fiddles to hold the all-plastic (no metal anywhere) Rubbermaid toolbox. Ahead is the old rode locker, above which the rode deck pipe is removed. Though I fitted a proper drain pipe in the pointy space, to lead dribbles aft to the through-hull sump, this will be dry. Some light comes in through the 'eye' windows, where the old hull-mounted running lights were. (More on that later.)
The battery box fitted with a PVC tube and rolls of wire is my Wire-O-Matic (shop-use wire dispenser, typically made from a box or barrel). It even has a proper lid (the lid from the battery box)!
The hull-side shelf is cut out for where the plastic trash can was; but now it broadens the space so there is less chance of the rode becoming caught under its edge when running out by deploying an anchor.
Main cabin (aka 'saloon')
During one of the hottest weeks of July I came out to the boat each day at 6.30 AM before leaving at 8.30 for my contract job 50 miles east. I managed to use up a whole quart of Easypoxy on the bulkheads, which has been a great relief because it's made the boat look closer to done.
Nearly all of the brightwork was removed before painting. The very intricate and delicate doorjamb seemed stuck to the bulkhead with varnish and I would not risk prying it off; so I masked it. Along the baseboard to port some residual tape can be seen. The baseboards are actually structural-- they help hold the sole joists down against the hull.
The thermometer and hydrometer are from a cheap 'weather station' I found in the trash. I dismantled the instruments, cleaned them and painted the shells in matte black. They work great. Above them, on the same centers, will go the clock and barometer. Below them is a bulkhead-mounted compass (mounted in the bulkhead! --imagine). I consider it vital to have a decent compass visible below, with which one can check courses and at-anchor bearings. Below below this, above the drop-leaf table, goes a clinometer.
The second blue plastic outlet box is for a 12VDC outlet and USB-based chargers. The stereo goes between the empty box and the (now absent) table.
The four-foot-long fluorescent shop light is, of course, temporary.
In this view the saloon is being used as a varnish shop. The large piece on top of the workbench is the top of the 'duffel-bag lockers' outboard of the toilet in the head. The other plywood piece is the top of the galley bins. The rest are just various bits of mahogany that go all over this compartment and in the head.
Plugs have been added to the vertical grab posts (at last!). Typically I varnish the main piece a few times before adding plugs so that the plugs receive a few coats less and so show as a lighter color. This is just an aesthetic I happen to prefer; and I have always done it this way.
The galley counter is still covered in cardboard. I have decided to add ceramic tiles to that 3-inch-high bulkhead above the settee.
The small red toolbox is the 'jewelry box', in which I keep all the cool rigging stuff (my favorite parts).
Here too can be seen the side of the speaker box, at the forward edge of the hull shelf, and where I 'glassed the small athwartships bulkhead of it to the hull. The white-pine stick, old iron C-clamp, and red-handled squeeze clamp (almost hidden from view) are currently holding this shelf up into position. Like the ones in the V-berth these two did not match each other, sideto side; and this one sagged while the one to port tilted up. The stick is forcing it up till the 'glass cures. Hopefully this will remedy some of the problem; but the little mahogany block under the forward end of the shelf (partially painted white, because its proper replacement is undergoing varnishing) will assist in this.
Other stuff
Here is a pic I took, on my back, up at the new foredeck hatch with the old hatch, which fit only the original trapezoidal molded-fiberglass opening, on top. Still waiting on white Sikaflex 295-UV to complete the new one.
The terminal blocks are junctions for the spar wiring. These get screwed to the teak crossmember (now painted white) and enclosed in a cute little mahogany box with sliding door, currently undergoing varnishing.
At the other end of the boat, I 'glassed a short bulkhead across the back end of the fuel-tank shelf, tucking it in just ahead of the fiberglass rudder-post tube. The problem with all skegless rudders is that they are liable to catch something nasty, such as when shooting some dodgy inlet. In this eventuality, there are two possible outcomes: one, the rudder will break off below the stainless-steel shaft (preferable) or, two, the rudder, tube and all will tear backwards and out of the boat (not good). If this were to happen, there is little anyone could do to save the boat-- unless that water were able to be confined to a watertight compartment. ALL rudder tubes should be isolated from the rest of the boat, so that intruding water cannot invade the rest of the hull and overwhelm the bilge pumps. (We all did learn something from the Titanic; right?)
This bulkhead is not high; and it will be fitted with a drain tube as well-- but in the event of a leak at a stricken rudder tube, the drain can be plugged and this compartment will contain much of the water before it is overwhelmed. This may be enough time to shift weight forward, get something over or into the torn hole(s), or fix or reroute a pump to handle the inundation. In any case it's far better a solution than that on most other boats-- which is to say it's better than nothing at all.
The little block is just holding the bulkhead in place and gets removed. In fact I painted this recently and probably should have taken a newer photo.
The little step in the foreground was added for climbing down into this locker through the cockpit-seat hatch, which I have done about 350 times since I have owned this boat. I got tired of leaning over and lying upon the edge of a 3/8" piece of plywood. Above this is the top of the under-cockpit locker, forward of the fuel tank, which is accessible through the quarter berth and, as of this writing, is now isolated from the rest of the under-cockpit space and its attendant gasoline fumes.
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