I designed a very nice replacement part for this but found no one to make it at a reasonable price. Then I happened to stumble across one on the Racelite web page and ordered it. Though the dimensions on the site represented an adequate part, the actual thing seemed to represent them only nominally-- the thickness was not a true 1/8" and the length was entirely too short. Rather typically I sat on this problem for over a year, working on other things, while I contemplated some solution.
Finally I ordered some flat stock, cut it to length, and sent it out to the local welders' with a pattern of the correct angle. The part I received was simply beautiful. I have begun to polish it and will finish it off before it's permanently installed.
You can see how the original part was only about 60 percent as long as it needed to be along the stem. The flat stock welded to the part effectively doubles the thickness for the first three holes. It is true that the tang for the forestay is still of the thin (original) stock; but as it's already thicker than were the shroud tangs I'll install it as it is and see if, as the rig is tuned, I get any elongation of the hole. If that will be the case (which I doubt) I'll have it remedied with more welding. As this Racelite part is meant for 20-to'22-footers, and as it's already meant to carry the load of 1/4" clevis pins, I'm betting it won't ever be a problem.
In this pic I have set the part on the bow to check the fit. Thanks to my template the welder's work resulted in a perfect fit. You will see the gap behind the very top of the fitting-- this requires attention. If I were to mount this as-is, two things would happen: Diana's J measurement (foot of the headsail) would be longer than that of a stock Hunter 25 by about 7/8"; and the natural stresses of a tuned and ruggedly-used rig would attempt to bend the fitting aftwards, putting the single screw through the deck into a shear load, and some distortion would occur. This is why it is never wise to suspend rigging attachments over air, as would be done here. I will fabricate a little block for in this gap, just something to support the compression load, and 'glass or epoxy it into place prior to paint and prior to attaching this fitting.
The horizontal pencil lines are marking where the mounting holes will go. Only one of the original holes lined up. I have a mahogany backing block for this, to be bedded in 5200 inside, and will drill new holes for the 1/4-20 hex-head cap screws. Hex-heads are best for this sort of thing because you can put a ratchet and socket on each one and really tune them well. Large-scale Phillips and, worse, slotted-head screws are really kind of pointless after a while. A larger screw implies a larger load which means installation torque matters more. No one can apply appropriate torque with a screwdriver handle. I think the only reason people dislike hex-headed cap screws is because they make the boat look like Frankenstein's monster. Personally, I like the look. It's its own aesthetic.
The evident damage to the bow was from the PO. The starboard-side toerail was cut to facilitate the fiberglass repair and reattached. Coincidentally, this piece will have to be cut down to accommodate the anchor roller. I'll fill the seam in the toerail with black 4000-UV to minimize the appearance of a crack. Much of the old fiberglass repair was faired over with 3M filler (the grayer stuff). The darker brown-olive is raw fiberglass from my sanding. I have filled all the imperfections with both Evercoat 27 and epoxy and after painting with epoxy paint (Perfection or Brightside) this won't be visible or vulnerable.
The brown thing above the deck is the work-order tag from the welders'. Mistakenly they wrote it up as being for my cousin Dave's shop; but this was my project and I contracted and paid for it. (This happens a lot, actually.)
Sales pitch #1
If any other H25 owner is interested in having one of these parts, I will be happy to supply it. It does, however, require a 4-legged pulpit; though I'd consider that an improvement. I've designed an updated bow rail for Diana, along the lines of a J27's, complete with step-through end, varnished-mahogany seat/step with nonskid, and mount for Aqua Signal running light; though I'll be installing a plain-Jane castoff pulpit from another boat for the short term.
Sales pitch #2
Yes;
the boat beside Diana, evident in one of these pics, is one of her sisters-- in this case a fellow
February 1974 boat, this one the later trunk cabin/pop-top model. They
are both of the same series, Diana being number 027 and the other boat
being 140. At that time Hunter had two production lines of H25s at their Marlboro, New Jersey, plant; and I believe that the "0" signified the period's
production series of "blister-canopy" or "flush-deck" models and the "1"
signified the trunk-cabin models. If these
boats were not on the production floor at the same time, they are probably not more
than two weeks apart in age.
I have been referring to this other boat
as "the sweet sister" and hope to enter negotiations with her owner to
take over her care and to restore her-- for she is still, even with an
inadequate cover, in better condition than Diana was when I first found
her and would represent a pretty easy, quick and profitable "quick fix"
and resale. She'll need some deck-core repair, paint, new cushions and upholstery, lifelines and probably cordage; and I do not know if there is an engine available. But it wouldn't take much more than that for her to go sailing again. As soon as Diana goes in I will have this boat shrink-wrapped and set a dehumidifier in her, to help preserve her. Anyone interested is welcome to get in touch.
Hello John, this has been fascinating to read about and see the results in the pictures. I'm somewhat confused about how the serial numbers work though. I have a 1974 H25 with what you call a trunk cabin / pop-top. The serial number (between the aft through-hulls) is HUN25049M741 - G. Does that make this one #49? It looks like there were a few attempts made on the rear cabin bulkheads to get the pop-top supports right.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Dave Milo