Hanging locker
Aft of the port-side rode locker, opposite of the microwave and toolbox, was planned this locker. In framing it I realized there was much more space than I expected. As it is now, it has several bins to hold shoes, balled-up t-shirts and cottons, various personal effects as well as 12" worth of clothes on hangers. Shirts and coats will fold onto the floor; but it's much better than having nowhere to hang clean clothes at all.
The first photo shows the after bulkhead, where the plumbing is (which necessitated the locker being delineated from the bunk space in the first instance). The 1-1/2" vented loop is for the holding-tank pumpout; the smaller standpipe is the holding-tank vent which goes to a 3/4" through-hull in the hull. The wiring will go to a 3-gang panel over the head sink for the lights. The little 1-1/4" elbow shown coming through the wall is the head-sink drain, going to its trap and thence to 3/4" hose for the seacock.
I don't know if I've said this before but, when fitting plumbing traps to boat sinks, one should always make them turn forward or aft first and then inboard only after they have gone downwards, to ensure sufficient drainage on either tack. (This says nothing about the shape of the basin which may retain water to leeward of the drain; but that can't be helped unless you have a basin more steeply sloped than the usual angle of heel.)
The other pic shows the forward side of the same locker. The "Get A Grip' placard came from a hook-and-loop strap display at the West Marine store where I worked; I thought it was hysterical and swiped it from the trash when the sale was over and cut it to a minimal size (and then spilled acetone on it, causing the blur). It's been in the boat for about 6 years and by now deserves a place as decor.
This locker will get covered with a canvas curtain to keep water out, as the foredeck hatch is directly overhead.
The vertical door-jamb pieces probably need some cleaner way of terminating outboard of the sill-- I'll look to that later.
Main cabin, aft
These two pics show the back corners of the main cabin, the electrical panel to port and the galley and bookcase to starboard. Among other things can be seen my re-use of the (1974) teak fiddle rails that were originally fitted to the outboard hull shelves over the settees. This wasn't an easy task since the cabin, as molded, is not symmetrical-- the port-side bulkhead was fully one inch wider than the starboard side, as is evident since the vertical posts are keyed to the hatch's opening. The solution lay in justifiying the space between two spindles on the center of the opening and then ensuring that no spindles are too close to the ends. I think one of them is a little off, by less than 1/8", but you won't be able to tell (and one strict rule of Diana is that no one is permitted to visit this boat with a ruler in hand!).
In the spirit of complete disclosure: the cheek piece at the after end of the overhead cabinet (where the radio goes) is teak, not mahogany! It came from a very weathered piece in a trash bin and I didn't recognize it till I'd sanded it down and applied varnish. Oh, well-- at least both sides are the same (from the same board in fact).
On neither side is the cap fitted to the top of the divider bulkhead. I've been getting impatient about getting this stuff varnished and installed, just so it doesn't clutter up the cabin and inhibit other progress (as it's all been doing for too many years) and so I screwed this stuff into place as it is now. I'll fit the cap pieces after I finish the after side of these bulkheads (more on that-- and a surprise! --later).
I
haven't had the motivation to build the drawers for the galley yet and
so the cabinet bulkhead beside the ladder is still missing.
I don't go in for the trite little piracy fetish so many yachties favor; but the skull-and-crossed-bones can cooler is in tribute to my late cousin Peter, who co-founded Raider Yacht (for which this was a logo). So it shall remain on the boat.
Other stuff
Here is a cool pic of the foredeck hatch. It lets in some phenomenal light-- you can read by it in the saloon, even during a rain, even with the other hatch closed. I've been saying all along that if this project is taking far too long, at least I get to spend my days with gorgeous bits of varnished Honduras mahogany; and here's an example.
The stick holds up the hatch because the hardware isn't on yet. The cords are what secures it down against wind, rattles and motion.
The green tape is a sign reminding me which end goes forward. Remember that the hatch frame is cut from the base on the deck, to ensure that they fit together, before the base is installed. Even with a rectangle it matters which way it goes.
Below is a pic of the (too dusty!) sink in the head. The cabinet lift-out panels are not painted and so not fitted yet. The leaning board is the divider, not screwed in, that will hold a shelf in the forward locker.
The portion of counter after of the seam in the fiddle hinges up for access to a 4-inch-deep bin (the original bin over the footwell of the settee berth. The astute will recall that this idea was my contribution to this boat's design in 1972; see here).
I messed up the trim stick that goes atop the blue countertop along the forward bulkhead and it hasn't been remade and installed yet. In (typical) impatience I had just "eyeballed" the angle against the fiddle and cut it; and it's too wrong to be tolerable.
I could have tugged the wire loom a little more tightly into the upper shelf, under the window, for this pic; but there's still wiring to be run in it.
Don't say anything about the after cheek piece protruding below the upper fiddle rail while the forward one remains even. This is an oversight and will be remedied! The trick deserving the credit is in the making of both cheek pieces, one wide and one narrower, so that they align with the locker face which, which like the sink-counter face, is parallel to the centerline. How else would it have been done?
And this allows the curtain rods to be fastened to the cheek pieces, more or less parallel horizontally. My mom, the accomplished seamstress, is currently making the curtains for these hull windows.
Main saloon
Lastly here is a pic of the saloon bulkhead after I fitted the cheek pieces along the top. This had been long unfinished because I just didn't know a way of making it all in one piece; and then (in the shower, as so often happens) I conceived of the positively brilliant notion of making each side in two pieces. I wanted some straight line to avoid emphasizing the roundness of the cabintop in here; and here is my solution: an ogee curve descending to a second cheek piece and a further horizontal line. Together these just about cover the ragged fiberglass tape (though not quite) and represent an apparently-structural deck beam in conjunction with the compression post (the true structural deck beam is on the forward side of the bulkhead, requiring the horizontal door header).
In keeping
with the conceit of having these pieces represent a real deck beam, I
deliberately made these of Phillipine (lauan), not Honduras; so they
appear greyer, darker, a little greener than the footwell trim and table
cleat mounted lower on the bulkhead. The cheek pieces to cover the gap
between bulkhead and cabinside will be of (thinner) Honduras.
All
of these pieces, as well as those on the forward side of this bulkhead,
are "permanently" installed now. If the white or varnish requires any
more touching-up, it'll be done with them in situ.
I
should have reinstalled the arched door header here; but in fitting the
cheek pieces I ran one screw into the bulkhead, thinking it would be
covered by the door header, and just missed; so I have to fill it and
paint it again first.
Dave
saw this and commented on my practice of simply screwing these pieces
into place without concern for hiding the screw heads behind plugs or
multiple cleats, saying it was just like what Uncle Joe would have
done. I took that as a high compliment, as I have long admired Uncle
Joe's clearheaded sense about what's least complicated being the most
aesthetically pleasant... but I really meant it all this way to be able
to remove all these pieces for varnishing (and revarnishing. As I
always say, 'It's never the last coat of varnish!').
