Wiring typically doesn't show well; so it may not be worth a photo or two anyway. I have routed most of the interior wiring into 'finished' position by now. I suppose it is typical of me to over-complicate the issue; but one of my favorite parts of working on boats is 12-volt DC electrical systems. Also, I consider it simple to add convenience by providing adequate outlets, lights, and options for future as well. Currently Diana's electrical system includes the following:
Three standard duplex outlets, 115VAC, residential grade. No boat ever sunk from slowly-corroding household-quality 115VAC outlets. These are wired with high-wuality marine-spec tinned-copper wire and sealed in heat-shrink connectors. If one should go bad, only the oulet-- available for $0.79 at Lowe's-- would have to be replaced; and that's a simple matter of two little mounting screws and three terminal screws.
Battery charger, from ProSport, 12-amp, for two separate banks. One bank is (at present) two size-24 house batteries; the other is one size-24 starting battery for the outboard. I have recently decided to the be add a third house battery,.the better to mount it on the port side, which is currently opposite the heavier side of the boat. In fact I will position the first two house batteries in the two port-side battery boxes, leaving the starboard one till later (probably at the first battery replacement in 3-4 years) and to see how the boat balances side-to-side. The battery charger is hard-wired into the 115VAC master panel; the three outlets, into one of which the microwave gets wired, are farther forward.
Several 12VDC switch panels, into which the appropriate toggle/paddle switches get mounted. I am making these out of a sheet of black-white-black laminated guitar-pickguard material, so that they will resemble residential-type 3-gang switch panels except on a smaller scale. Four of these will be dispersed throughout the boat's interior, in the head, in the saloon, and in the overhead panels above the galley and quarter berth. Into these go the switches for interior footlights, deck outlet, instrument lights, cabin fans, and other stuff.
All the red-and-white interior dome lights are getting wired in two circuits, one for red and one for white. The red and white functions are controlled by a rotary 2-position switch, at the main breaker panel, labelled .Night/Day'. On 'Day' mode only the white sides of the dome lights will work. On 'Night' mode only the red sides will work. This is to prevent casual crew from switching on a white light whilst someone else is trying to navigate in the dark. Needless to say the bulkhead lights are on a separate breaker and would remain switched off during navigation operations after dark.
In the openings vacated by the removal of the hull-mounted red vigation ligand green navigation lights, I decided that retaining the holes would allow plenty of light into the forepeak. So I am fitting dark Plexiglas windows over these eye-like holes and then mounting a pair of blue LED lights inside that will represent Diana's eyes. These are wired to a separate switch, independent of navigation or deck lights, so that they may be illuminated under any conditions, even at rest or at anchor. So, apparently, Diana is a true Nordic princess then... for she has the blue eyes for the part. [wink]
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